Fabric

Textile Raw Material (TRM) | Different Types of Textile Raw Material

Textile Raw Material:

Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
Textile raw materials are selected as per the manufacturing policy of the company i.e. whether a composite mill or only a spinning, weaving or dyeing /finishing.
Types of Textile Raw Material: 

1. Fiber
2. Fabric
3. Dye stuff
4. Chemical and auxiliaries

Fiber: 
Nature presents a large variety of fibers. Beside this it is possible today to produce a number of different kinds of man made fibers but only a relatively small amount of this is actually used in textile industry.

Jute fiber

Fiber is a matter which includes flexibility, fineness and a high ratio of length to thickness . It is necessary at least length to diameter ratio is 1000 to consider a fiber.
Some additional characteristics are the required for textile fibers, such as stability at high temperature, a certain minimum strength & extensibility.

Name and Source: 

1. Cotton
2. Silk 
3. Jute
4. Wool
5. Polyester
6. Nylon
7. Spandex
8. Flax
9. Acrylic
10. Aramid
11. Polyethylene
12. Polypropylene etc.

Fabric: 
Fabric is a planar textile structure produces by interlacing yarns, fibers, or filaments. It may be woven, knitted andnonwoven.
Name and Source:

1. 100 % Cotton fabric
2. CVC fabric
3. PC fabric
4. 2*2 Lycra rib fabric
5. Lycra single jerseyfabric
6. Viscose Lycra
7. Double lacoste
8. Plain Interlock
9. 100% Polyester fabric
10. Grey mélange etc.

Dyes : 
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and requires a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
The following dyes are used:

1. Reactive dye
2. Disperse dye
3. Acid dye
4. Basic dye
5. Direct dye
6. Sulfur dye
7. Azoic dye
8. Vat dye

Chemical and Auxiliaries:

Dyeing auxiliaries mean a chemical or formulated chemical product which enables a processing operation in preparation, dyeing, printing or finishing to be carried out more effectively, or which is essential if a given effect is to be obtained.

1. Sequestering agent.
2. Lubricants / Anticreasant.
3. Pretreatment Chemicals
4. Levelling and Dispersing Agent.
5. Sewuestering, Dispersing and Levelling Agentfor Reactive dyeing.
6. Antifoam.
7. pH Control and buffer system.
8. Desizing Agent
9. Yarn Lubricant
10. Mercerising agent
11. Dyefixing agent
12. Optical Brightener.
13. Soaping Agent / Washing off Agent.

Fabric Faults | Causes of Woven Fabrics Defects or Faults

Fabric Faults

Fabric faults are responsible for major defects found by the garment industry. Due to the increasing demand for quality fabrics, high quality requirements are today greater since customer has become more aware of “Non-quality” problems. In order to avoid fabric rejection, mills have to produce fabrics of high quality, constantly. Often inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments without adequate training in fabric defects and their causes. The ultimate solution, of course, is to provide actual examples or photographs of both major and minor defects.

Woven fabric

Names of Woven Fabrics Defects or Faults: 

1. Bad Selvedge
2. Burl Mark
3. Drawbacks
4. Dropped Pick
5. End Out
6. Jerk-in
7. Knots
8. Mixed End (Yarn)
9. Mixed Filling
10. Open Reed
11. Slub
12. Smash
13. Soiled Filling or End
14. Stop Mark
15. Thin Place 
16. Holes 
17. Drop Stitches
18. Loop Distortion

1. Bad Selvedge
Causes: A defect in a fabric because of faulty weaving, warp ends being set too far apart for the thickness of the yarn or infinished fabric, an appearance in which the underlying structures is not connected to the degree required.
2. Burl Mark
Causes: When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, it is often removed by a "burling tool." This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.
3. Drawbacks 
Causes: Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven into the fabric. Usually the ends are broken.
4. Dropped Pick 
Causes: Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding the filling yarn, causing the filling yarn to be woven without tension. The filling yarn appears as "kinky." There will also be areas of "end out."
5. End Out 
Causes: Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with missing end.
6. Jerk-in 
Causes: Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.
7. Knots 
Causes: Caused by tying spools of yarn together.
8. Mixed End (Yarn) 
Causes: Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the wrap frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric.
9. Mixed Filling 
Causes: Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different fiber blend used in filling. Will appear as a distinct shade change.
10. Open Reed 
Causes: Results from a bent reed wire causing wrap ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on wrap and shuttle.
11. Slub 
Causes: Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.
12. Smash 
Causes: Caused by a number of ruptured wrap ends that have been repaired.
13. Soiled Filling or End 
Causes: Dirty, oil looking spots on the wrap or filling yarns, or on package-dyed yarn.
14. Stop Mark 
Causes: When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when loom starts again' the slackness is woven into the fabric.
15. Thin Place 
Causes: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem. 

16. Holes
Causes: Bad needle, take down mechanism too tight, high tension on yarn, bad yarn needle too tight in their slots, dial height too low or too high, badly tied knots, improper stitch setting.

17. Drop Stitches
Causes: Takedown mechanism too loose, defective needles, too loose yarn tension not sufficient, wrong needle timing set, needle tricks closed.

18. Loop Distortion
Causes: Bad and bent needles, bent trick walls, uneven yarn tension, needle timing set wrong, yarn carriers set wrong.